The customer sent a size S garment. They needed us to develop an M sample—with their own logo and changes to the details.
They were not asking for the exact same fabric. They wanted to see whether we could work from a physical reference, develop the pattern and carry their requirements into a new sample. At HF Garments, we completed that development sample against the brief.
For a brand preparing a bulk collection, this is a useful starting point. But there are two separate questions: can the reference help explain your design, and what must the new sample actually confirm?
A reference is useful. “Copy this” is not a complete brief.
A physical garment gives the developer something a photo cannot: access to the inside seams, construction and proportions. You can turn it over and point to the part you want to keep—or change.
The risk is assuming every detail on that garment is intentional. If you like the pocket construction but want a different placement, say both. Otherwise, the factory may carry over a detail you meant to replace.
The S label does not define your brand’s M fit
This matters even when you have a finished reference in hand. “Make it M” leaves room for two people to imagine different measurements. Give the target measurements and intended fit, rather than expecting the reference’s size label to do that work.
Fabric is another decision. A substitute may be suitable for reviewing how a detail is made, yet stretch or hang differently from your intended material. Do not let approval of the construction silently become approval of fit in the final fabric.
For this project, identical fabric was not part of the initial request. The completed development sample should therefore be understood within that brief; final-material fit, the other sizes and bulk readiness still need their own review.
What to send with your reference
You do not need a long explanation to start. A few marked photos and clear answers are more useful than “same as this, but better.”
| Tell the developer | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Keep / Change / Undecided, marked on reference photos | Separates the details you want from those you do not |
| Target sample size, key measurements and intended fit | Defines what your brand means by M |
| Fabric direction, own logo artwork and placement | Clarifies what this development sample should demonstrate |
| Planned quantity by style/colour and required date | Connects development with the bulk project you are considering |
Watch the development explainer
The video below shares workshop footage alongside this brief. Use it as context for the discussion; the finished sample’s measurements and fit need a separate review.
Before you move from the sample to a bulk order
Ask one question: what exactly am I approving? The logo placement, construction, measurements and final fabric do not have to be settled at the same moment. Write down what is agreed and what remains open, against the same sample version and instructions.
Our sample-to-bulk production guide covers that next handover. For background on why developing a pattern and extending a size range are different tasks, see Italian Artisan’s pattern making and size grading guide.
If you are planning a bulk collection or repeat programme within our activewear range, send your reference, intended changes and estimated quantity by style and colour through the project enquiry form or WhatsApp. Include what you want the first sample to help you decide.
